When you are making maps it only makes sense occasionally to go out and discover the routes yourself. So in July, I plugged out and headed to Estonia’s second-largest islands with a bike and a single-wheel trailer. I carried my portable home for two weeks and aimed to circle the island along the main long-distance bike route. I also planned to make stops to explore the local area. I had zero experience cycling with a trailer loaded with camping gear. From earlier experiences, I knew I get bad backaches and freeze in the tent. I also wondered what to do if either the bike or trailer broke down. I hoped for the best as there is no dedicated service for bike emergencies.
My first destination was the Tahkuna peninsula, where I stayed on a friendly beach-side campsite run by a local family. I started slow, enjoying the small talk with other guests, walks on the beach and picking blueberries in the forest. On my second day, I circled the peninsula on a bike. I visited Tahkuna Lighthouse with spectacular 360-degree views from the top. ‘I can’t go up’, one of the other guests on the campsite said, ‘as I always feel like jumping’. Standing amid darting swifts in the top of the lighthouse, I didn’t feel the need to jump. Rather, I felt the need to fly. There was so much air around me and the views were spectacular.
The next day I treated myself to a beach day, still assuming this relaxed pace would continue throughout the journey. How wrong I was! I spent a single blissful day on my own on a wilder section of the beach. I went swimming, painting, and bird-watching. After a rather cool night in the tent, the warmth of the sun seeped through me. The soft sand soothed my stiff lower back. ‘How lovely’ I thought ‘Maybe I should skip the plan to cycle the island and stay here instead?’
But the next day I packed up and got back on the road. It wasn’t a long distance, only 14 km. A room and comfy mattress were waiting for me as I checked in a guesthouse for a night. It was still early. I walked to a nearby culture centre giving new life to a derelict factory. The border between wilderness and the building was blurred and nature crept in from the windows. I hope it will stay this way after it goes through the renovation.
I woke refreshed and after a truly fab breakfast at the guesthouse packed up and continued pedalling to the west. 30 km next to hurrying cars on an uneventful road felt like a long way. I breathed out relief when I finally arrived. I understood this journey was not going to be as chilled as I had thought. My wrists ached from keeping the bike in balance. But the campsite was airy and bright and the moss underneath felt soft like a bed that night.
Kõpu peninsula is different from the rest of the island. Its wind-swept beaches were too harsh for fishing. Its stony ground was too bare for farming. Only a few settlers lived on this 3 km wide strip of land. I found a stone in one of the villages. It described beautifully the challenges of the hardy people who lived here. ‘They built their chambers on the wind and their lives at the edge of the world’.
One week had passed. I checked the map. Still, two-thirds to go. It was clear I needed to up my game if I wanted to finish the journey in time. Also, my budget depleted rapidly – Hiiumaa is not a cheap destination, especially for a solo traveller. The next day I covered more ground. I booked another two nights in a quiet guesthouse to do some washing. I also wanted a good night’s sleep. And then a 60 km straight in one day. ‘I’ll come back,’ I promised to myself, passing the settlements I would have liked to explore longer.
I have been to Kassari before. It was a few years ago in August. The light was golden, apples were ripe and tourists were few. I arrived in a taxi and camped near an upmarket holiday village for nearly a week. But now when I arrived and asked about camping they dismissed me promptly. Maybe I looked too worn out to mix with their more affluent crowd. Although I have good memories from the earlier visit, I didn’t get a good vibe this time. I only stayed for the night before pedalling onward.
Back on the road, I felt at once better. Instead of the main road, I decided to take a longer detour through a nature park. It felt good – the air was fresh, the greenery surrounded me and I was on my own. And this is when it happened – I flipped the trailer, bending the rod that attached it to the bike. ‘This is it’ I thought for a moment, but luckily it was an easy fix. In an hour I pulled up to the holiday village and was welcomed despite crashing a wedding party.
Although I still had about 14 km to go I felt much more relaxed and felt I’d earned a treat. I sat at the harbour restaurant drinking good coffee and watched a woman making wildflower arrangements. We started to chat and share our creative experiences. I thought back on all the fascinating conversations I’d had over the two weeks. I met people from all walks of life. The best thing about solo travel is you are more open to these conversations. I met more people during this journey than for the whole year.
‘What was the most memorable place you visited during your journey’ I was asked when I arrived back to Kärdla. Impossible to answer, as each area of Hiiumaa has something different to offer. The island nature, historic lighthouses, wild beaches, and well-arranged museums are all unique experiences. Or maybe it is the space itself. You can still watch the sunset on your own while taking a dip in the sea. As the islanders say ‘There’s time’.
Side note: I found the majority of the island is still very car-centric although cycling is increasingly popular. There are only a few designated bike paths. The designated area for cyclists is in many places too narrow and speeds are high. I also observed wildlife run over by cars. However, the island has the potential to become a truly wonderful cycling destination in the region. This can be achieved with a better cycling infrastructure. Additionally, reducing speed limits would help both slow travellers and wildlife.
Helen Ilus 